Hey all…quick post today because I’m exhausted. Class today was really interesting. Our morning class was again about international involvement and intervention in genocide and our afternoon class was about the consequences of the 1994 genocide. Not surprisingly, the genocide had a huge impact on every aspect of life in Rwanda and even 15 years later many of these consequences are still so visible.
After class, we visited AVEGA, a genocide widows support group located in Kigali. The group, founded in 1995 by fifty widows, provides health care, counseling, and financial and emotional support to women and children who literally lost everything during the genocide. After our meetings with two of the directors, we went to the organization’s store where they sell crafts made by the widows. All of the profits go back into the organization so I ended up buying a traditional Rwandan basket (you better like it mom!).
We then jumped back onto our big red bus (a.k.a. the “Love Bus”) and drove back to our guesthouse to the musical stylings of Beyonce, R. Kelly, and Akon. The windows were open (even though it was poring rain), we were all singing, and I'm convinced that all of Kigali was laughing at us. Back at the guesthouse we had a couple of meetings about our service placements that begin tomorrow. I’ll be heading over to a secondary school where I will help teach some of the teachers English. Rwanda has recently decided to switch all classroom instruction into English and many of the teachers here need a crash course in some basic English….hopefully we’ll be able to help them out! I’m nervous but really excited to have the opportunity to make a little bit of a difference.
So, everything in Kigali is still going well! And, on a completely unrelated note, I’m still so amazed at how friendly, accommodating, and happy the people here are. By all accounts, Rwandans have every right to be cynical and bitter….yet they aren’t. Rwandans refuse to be defined by the genocide. They won’t let their past dictate their future. We all definitely have something to learn from these people. It actually reminds me of my favorite quote from The Perks of Being A Wall Flower; “So, I guess we are who we are for a lot of reasons. And maybe we'll never know most of them. But even if we don't have the power to choose where we come from, we can still choose where we go from there. We can still do things. And we can try to feel okay about them.”
Night,
-Luke
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Kigali Update
So I haven’t blogged in a couple of days and I figured I should fill you all in about the past few days in Kigali! This weekend was pretty relaxing with some cool trips downtown to Bourbon Café (think Starbucks does Rwanda), one of the local fabric markets, and an artisan village right outside the city where I managed to pick up some cool things (I am hopping that I’m going to be able to fit everything in my suitcase…wishful thinking at its finest). On the way back from the village, we were spotted by about five or six naked Rwandan kids who had been swimming in a little stream nearby. They threw on their clothes and came sprinting after us yelling “Muzungu! Muzungu!”, an endearing term for white people that seems to be thrown about whenever we're walking around Kigali. We made it back into the city where we grabbed lunch at this little café downtown that has an unbelievable avocado, ham, and chili mayonnaise sandwich…its absolutely ridiculous.
Yesterday was another amazing day! In our morning class we discussed the feasibility and ramifications of international intervention in instances of genocide. Unfortunately, history tells us that genocide is typically abhorred only after the fact and that practically nothing is ever done to prevent genocides or shorten their duration and/or impact. Therefore, it seems absolutely necessary that the international community dedicates itself to actively preventing genocide and, when genocide does in fact break out, using all means necessary to bring it to an immediate end…it is our moral (and perhaps legal) obligation to do so. Interestingly, our afternoon class, taught by a Rwandan professor, was about the international response, or lack thereof, in Rwanda specifically…it is absolutely appalling that the international community new so much yet did absolutely nothing to prevent or stop the massacres.
After class, a bunch of us decided to head down to an orphanage/school to play some basketball and soccer with some Rwandans we had met around our guesthouse. We obviously got there during recess because there were a ton of 2nd graders hanging around. We ended up teaching them how to play Frisbee and they taught us some little Rwandan foot dance/game (I’m bringing it back to the States…its gonna be the new thing). It was so awesome just playing with these kids (all of whom were orphans) and talking with them about Rwanda, sports, and school. We ended our night at a little local bar/restaurant that is right down the road from our guesthouse. I got two delicious goat kabobs, a fried potato, and two beers for less than three dollars…not a bad deal in my book.
So, overall, I’m loving Kigali. The people here are amazing, the food is delicious, and I’m still amazed at how beautiful this city is. That being said, being here is tough sometimes. There are so many daily reminders of the atrocities that occurred here in 1994. There are the bullet holes that still pockmark the Rwandan Parliament. There are Rwandans without hands, arms, or legs. And, maybe worst of all, every day brings a new horror story about the genocide. And yet while I find it so difficult to watch and listen to it all, I can’t even begin to comprehend what it would be like to live it.
-Luke
Yesterday was another amazing day! In our morning class we discussed the feasibility and ramifications of international intervention in instances of genocide. Unfortunately, history tells us that genocide is typically abhorred only after the fact and that practically nothing is ever done to prevent genocides or shorten their duration and/or impact. Therefore, it seems absolutely necessary that the international community dedicates itself to actively preventing genocide and, when genocide does in fact break out, using all means necessary to bring it to an immediate end…it is our moral (and perhaps legal) obligation to do so. Interestingly, our afternoon class, taught by a Rwandan professor, was about the international response, or lack thereof, in Rwanda specifically…it is absolutely appalling that the international community new so much yet did absolutely nothing to prevent or stop the massacres.
After class, a bunch of us decided to head down to an orphanage/school to play some basketball and soccer with some Rwandans we had met around our guesthouse. We obviously got there during recess because there were a ton of 2nd graders hanging around. We ended up teaching them how to play Frisbee and they taught us some little Rwandan foot dance/game (I’m bringing it back to the States…its gonna be the new thing). It was so awesome just playing with these kids (all of whom were orphans) and talking with them about Rwanda, sports, and school. We ended our night at a little local bar/restaurant that is right down the road from our guesthouse. I got two delicious goat kabobs, a fried potato, and two beers for less than three dollars…not a bad deal in my book.
So, overall, I’m loving Kigali. The people here are amazing, the food is delicious, and I’m still amazed at how beautiful this city is. That being said, being here is tough sometimes. There are so many daily reminders of the atrocities that occurred here in 1994. There are the bullet holes that still pockmark the Rwandan Parliament. There are Rwandans without hands, arms, or legs. And, maybe worst of all, every day brings a new horror story about the genocide. And yet while I find it so difficult to watch and listen to it all, I can’t even begin to comprehend what it would be like to live it.
-Luke
Monday, May 25, 2009
“Our Fear and Our Hope”
Today we visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial and, needless to say, it was an emotionally straining day. It was an experience unlike any other I have ever had and I’m still struggling on how best to describe it to you all….
The memorial is a combination of a museum, stunning gardens, and mass graves. The self-guided tour began with these mass graves in which over 250,000 victims are buried. Obviously, this number is staggering and, at first, I had a difficult time fully grasping the fact that over a quarter of a million individuals were buried beneath my very feet. At the same time though, I don’t think I have ever felt as connected to the events of 1994 then I did at that moment….standing next to these graves made history a reality.
After wandering among graves and gardens for a while, I headed into the museum section of the memorial. The exhibit sought to trace the history of Rwanda from its earliest times through the genocide. In the first room, I was struck by the following quote: “Rwanda is a country of hills, mountains, forests, lakes, laughing children, markets of busy people, drummers, dancers, artisans, and craftsman. We manage to squeeze thousands of hills and eight million people into our 26,338 square kilometers. Out land is rich and fertile, the climate pleasant. This has been our home for centuries. We are one people. We speak one language. We have one history. In recent times though, genocide has cast a dark shadow over our lives and torn us apart. This chapter is a bitter part of out lives, but we must remember for those lost and for the sake of the future. This is about our past and our future. Our nightmares and dreams. Our fear and our hope. Which is why we begin where we end…with the country we love.”
The museum itself was absolutely amazing. It went throughout Rwanda’s history and emphasized how prior to colonization, Hutu, Tutsi, and Twa were socio-economic classifications within the 18 clans that made up early Rwanda. These classifications could change with personal circumstances and had few ramifications. However, under the Belgian colonial rule, these distinctions were racialized and institutionalized…imposed ethnic identity began to determine an individual’s opportunity. In short, the colonial administration favored the Tutsi due to their belief that the Tutsi was more “western” and “civilized” than the Hutu or Twa. They continued to rule through the existing Tutsi monarchies and gave the Tutsi social and economic opportunities that were not available to the Hutu or the Twa. However, when the Tutsi elite began to talk about independence, the colonial authority almost immediately began to favor the Hutus. Not surprisingly, when Rwanda was finally granted independence, power was left in the hands of a new Hutu government. What followed was a series of massacres between 1959 to 1973 in which thousands of Tutsis were slaughtered and over 700,000 were exiled. Ethnic tension increased after 1990 and again there were several waves of massacres that began in October of that year. By 1993 it had become clear that the Hutu extremists were planning to wipe out the Tutsis, and, following the assassination of the Rwanda’s Hutu president on April 6th, 1994, genocide was unleashed.
The museum than began to document the genocide itself. It had weapons that were used by the Interhamwe, accounts from survivors and perpetrators, and video evidence of some of the killings. I was particularly moved by one exhibit that documented several cases of Hutus that protected and fought alongside with the Tutsis. While it may sound corny, I find myself clinging to such examples of human goodness and hope in an otherwise dark subject matter. While Rwanda is most certainly a case study in the human capacity for evil, it also reminds us of the human capacity for love and altruism.
The exhibit then moved on to the topic of reconciliation and justice. It emphasized that the pursuit of justice is necessary after genocide in order to “end impunity, ascertain who was directly responsible, and to provide survivors with the dignity of seeing and a fair and open trial”. It explained the role of the ICTR as well as Rwanda’s use of a traditional community-based justice system, known as gacaca courts, to try accused genocidaires. In my opinion, the gacaca courts, while certainly not perfect, are vital to continued reconciliation as it allows Rwandan’s themselves to own the process, something that is notably missing in the ICTR. Additionally, the gacaca courts facilitates a much needed dialogue between victims and perpetrators.
The exhibit then concluded with the following: “ Almost ever corner of Rwanda was touched by the genocide in some way. It is impossible for us to forget the past, it is also extremely painful to remember. We remember the victims of the past because they were our family and friends….they should still be here. We also remember the events of the past, it is a terrible and unavoidable warning for our future if we do not take active steps to avoid it all over again”. This particular call to action moved me, it made me realize why I am in Rwanda. In order to make this world a better place and prevent future genocides, we must look history directly in the eye and recognize the horrors that we are indeed capable of. While it is uncomfortable, it is necessary and we have an obligation to do so. Knowledge is power.
As I entered the last room of the exhibit, I found myself in a black circular room. Along the walls hung the pictures of over two thousand victims. I sat down and began scanning the rows of pictures and on one of the first pictures I found a note scribbled on the back, "To my family, there is no begging nor end, just an endless love in life." I found myself looking at pictures of children, adults, and babies. There were young couples on their wedding days, kids celebrating their birthdays, and a grandmother holding her new grandson. There were pictures of families, couples, a man graduating from college. I couldn’t help but cry. These were people. This was me. This was you. This was real.
The memorial is a combination of a museum, stunning gardens, and mass graves. The self-guided tour began with these mass graves in which over 250,000 victims are buried. Obviously, this number is staggering and, at first, I had a difficult time fully grasping the fact that over a quarter of a million individuals were buried beneath my very feet. At the same time though, I don’t think I have ever felt as connected to the events of 1994 then I did at that moment….standing next to these graves made history a reality.
After wandering among graves and gardens for a while, I headed into the museum section of the memorial. The exhibit sought to trace the history of Rwanda from its earliest times through the genocide. In the first room, I was struck by the following quote: “Rwanda is a country of hills, mountains, forests, lakes, laughing children, markets of busy people, drummers, dancers, artisans, and craftsman. We manage to squeeze thousands of hills and eight million people into our 26,338 square kilometers. Out land is rich and fertile, the climate pleasant. This has been our home for centuries. We are one people. We speak one language. We have one history. In recent times though, genocide has cast a dark shadow over our lives and torn us apart. This chapter is a bitter part of out lives, but we must remember for those lost and for the sake of the future. This is about our past and our future. Our nightmares and dreams. Our fear and our hope. Which is why we begin where we end…with the country we love.” The museum itself was absolutely amazing. It went throughout Rwanda’s history and emphasized how prior to colonization, Hutu, Tutsi, and Twa were socio-economic classifications within the 18 clans that made up early Rwanda. These classifications could change with personal circumstances and had few ramifications. However, under the Belgian colonial rule, these distinctions were racialized and institutionalized…imposed ethnic identity began to determine an individual’s opportunity. In short, the colonial administration favored the Tutsi due to their belief that the Tutsi was more “western” and “civilized” than the Hutu or Twa. They continued to rule through the existing Tutsi monarchies and gave the Tutsi social and economic opportunities that were not available to the Hutu or the Twa. However, when the Tutsi elite began to talk about independence, the colonial authority almost immediately began to favor the Hutus. Not surprisingly, when Rwanda was finally granted independence, power was left in the hands of a new Hutu government. What followed was a series of massacres between 1959 to 1973 in which thousands of Tutsis were slaughtered and over 700,000 were exiled. Ethnic tension increased after 1990 and again there were several waves of massacres that began in October of that year. By 1993 it had become clear that the Hutu extremists were planning to wipe out the Tutsis, and, following the assassination of the Rwanda’s Hutu president on April 6th, 1994, genocide was unleashed.
The museum than began to document the genocide itself. It had weapons that were used by the Interhamwe, accounts from survivors and perpetrators, and video evidence of some of the killings. I was particularly moved by one exhibit that documented several cases of Hutus that protected and fought alongside with the Tutsis. While it may sound corny, I find myself clinging to such examples of human goodness and hope in an otherwise dark subject matter. While Rwanda is most certainly a case study in the human capacity for evil, it also reminds us of the human capacity for love and altruism.
The exhibit then moved on to the topic of reconciliation and justice. It emphasized that the pursuit of justice is necessary after genocide in order to “end impunity, ascertain who was directly responsible, and to provide survivors with the dignity of seeing and a fair and open trial”. It explained the role of the ICTR as well as Rwanda’s use of a traditional community-based justice system, known as gacaca courts, to try accused genocidaires. In my opinion, the gacaca courts, while certainly not perfect, are vital to continued reconciliation as it allows Rwandan’s themselves to own the process, something that is notably missing in the ICTR. Additionally, the gacaca courts facilitates a much needed dialogue between victims and perpetrators.
The exhibit then concluded with the following: “ Almost ever corner of Rwanda was touched by the genocide in some way. It is impossible for us to forget the past, it is also extremely painful to remember. We remember the victims of the past because they were our family and friends….they should still be here. We also remember the events of the past, it is a terrible and unavoidable warning for our future if we do not take active steps to avoid it all over again”. This particular call to action moved me, it made me realize why I am in Rwanda. In order to make this world a better place and prevent future genocides, we must look history directly in the eye and recognize the horrors that we are indeed capable of. While it is uncomfortable, it is necessary and we have an obligation to do so. Knowledge is power.
As I entered the last room of the exhibit, I found myself in a black circular room. Along the walls hung the pictures of over two thousand victims. I sat down and began scanning the rows of pictures and on one of the first pictures I found a note scribbled on the back, "To my family, there is no begging nor end, just an endless love in life." I found myself looking at pictures of children, adults, and babies. There were young couples on their wedding days, kids celebrating their birthdays, and a grandmother holding her new grandson. There were pictures of families, couples, a man graduating from college. I couldn’t help but cry. These were people. This was me. This was you. This was real.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Goodbye Tanzania, Hello Rwanda!
Yesterday was yet another interesting and inspiring day spent at the ITCR in Arusha. We were absolutely privileged to watch the trial of Edouard Karemera, the former Minister of the Interior in the interim Rwandan government. Karemera, along with other extremisit elements in the military and “Hutu Power” parties, is accused of seizing control of the Rwandan government in the wake of President Habyarimana’s assassination and using this power to implement a policy of genocide. While this specific case has been in trial for over eight years, we were lucky enough to hear Karemera himself on the witness stand yesterday. Throughout his testimony, Karemera attempted to portray himself as a nominal government official who did what he had to do in the midst of a civil war and spent the better part of the day describing the events of April 6th and 7th. Looking at the aging and placid Karemera, it was so hard to imagine that someone who seemed so normal, professional, and composed was responsible for such horrific crimes. After the trial concluded for the morning, we again headed up to a conference room where we meet with a senior legal advisor and two representatives from the Office of Witness and Victims services. Both meetings were so interesting and provided further insight into the complex and rapidly developing legal world in which the ITCR operates. Specifically, I found the discussion regarding the court’s level of judicial independence and impartiality to be the most interesting and, to be honest, a little unsettling. While the court most certainly enjoys a certain degree of autonomy, it appears as if it is still heavily influenced by the political will of the United Nations, the international community, and the Rwandan government. I really worry that true justice cannot possibly be delivered when a court is so heavily influenced and bound by such political will. That being said, I know that the ICTR does what it can to ensure that each defendant is given a fair and impartial trial. After another long day at the ICTR we went back to Via Via…the same little ex-pat bar in Arusha for dinner, a little free internet (and massive amounts of facebooking), and a final toast to Tanzania.
This morning, we woke up early, got a little breakfast, said goodbye to the amazingly hospitable staff of the Arusha Naaz and headed to the airport to grab a flight to Kigali. The flight, in a twenty-seater prop plane built well before I was born, was interesting to say the least…I should have known something was up when the flight attendant told those in the exit rows to open the emergency doors in case the pilot were to scream “evacuate, evacuate, evacuate”. But again, despite all the odds, we somehow made it alive to Kigali. The flight itself, despite the occasional bump and the Rwanda Air tuna sandwiches, was actually pretty enjoyable and provided stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro, Lake Victoria and, two hours later, Kigali!
Kigali is a remarkably beautiful city that sprawls across several of Rwanda’s verdant rolling hills. Like in Tanzania, the air is so fresh and the sky so blue. While we did not get to explore much of the city today, a couple of us took a taxi to the Hotel Mille Collines, the hotel featured in the film Hotel Rwanda, to grab some drinks and dinner. I naturally couldn’t help but think of the hundreds of Tutsis that had hid in the very same hotel during 1994. While the whole experience was somewhat ominous, I couldn’t help but to feel a little hopeful. It was at this same hotel that a group of committed Hutus put their own lives on the line to save Tutsis from the Interhamwe death squads. And, there was also something so uplifting about the fact that this hotel was once again open and, besides its storied history, rather unremarkable…buildings get repaired, life goes on, and people eventually heal. That being said, walking along the streets of Kigali is a strange and unique experience. I can’t help but think of the 1994 genocide and the million that perished on these very streets. I can’t help but look at individuals and wonder what role they played in the massacres. I can’t help but stare at the machete scars that mark the faces of the lucky few that survived....Well, that’s about it for tonight. I’m sitting out on our little balcony that overlooks Kigali. The lights that dot the numerous hills are absolutely beautiful and the night sky is riddled with millions of bright stars. Its good to be in Rwanda!
Night,
Luke
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda-Day 1
So, I found free wireless at this little bar outside the ICTR and, after not being able to log into facebook for four days, am currently in a state of utter euphoria! It’s actually really neat…it’s a tiny bar that’s popular with a lot of the ex-pats and ICTR workers and is a nice little oasis in the middle of Arusha.
Today was another amazing day in Arusha. We grabbed breakfast this morning at the hotel restaurant and then walked across the city to the ICTR. The ICTR was established in November of 1994 by the United Nations Security Council in order to prosecute those responsible for the Rwandan genocide. Specifically, the tribunal has jurisdiction over genocide, crimes against humanity and war crimes that occurred between January 1st and December 31st of1994.
We were greeted at the main gate by an ICTR intern and went up to Trial Chamber III to watch the trial of Dominique Ntawukulilyayo. Ntawukulilyayo, the former sous-prefet of the Butare province, is charged with three counts of genocide and direct and public incitement to commit genocide. Specifically, Ntawukulilyayo is accused of luring a group of Tutsi refugees to a hill where he had them massacred. From the gallery, we watched an alleged genocidaire testify against Ntawukulilyayo. During cross-examination, the defense council questioned the witness (whose identity was kept anonymous and was not visible from the gallery) about his own involvement in the genocide. I sat in utter shock as I heard the witness admit that he had rapped a young girl and had been involved in the murders of at least nine Tutsis at a roadblock in Kibuye. While I have read books about the genocide and watched numerous documentaries, I was not prepared to hear someone actually admit to these atrocities. There was something so ominous and deplorable about a man, sitting no less than ten feet from me, admit that he had participated in the genocide. What was perhaps even more shocking was the fact that his admissions did not faze the judges or lawyers in the slightest…testimony like this appeared to be the norm, not the exception. While it was certainly upsetting, there was also something truly beautiful in seeing Ntawukulilyayo in a courtroom. Throughout history, individuals like Ntawukulilyayo have been shrouded in a cloak of impunity and have not been held accountable for their actions. Now, through courts and tribunals like the ITCR, leaders from all over the world are beginning told that the international community will take action if an official abuses his or her power. I sincerely believe that such a message can and will prevent future atrocities.
After lunch, we headed back to the ICTR where we met with three of the court’s prosecutors. The three discussed their involvement and experiences with the court and the court’s pivotal role in the development of international law and justice. They stressed that the ICTR and the ICTY, its sister tribunal that is charged with prosecuting those accused of war crimes in Yugoslavia, is creating invaluable precedent that would forever alter international law. What struck me most about these three lawyers was that they were making such a tangible difference in the world…they seemed to be so dedicated and committed to international justice. It’s people like these lawyers that make me confident that we can and will find a better way forward in this troubled world…I guess I was just really inspired by the whole thing.
Okay, well I’m out for the night.
-Luke
Today was another amazing day in Arusha. We grabbed breakfast this morning at the hotel restaurant and then walked across the city to the ICTR. The ICTR was established in November of 1994 by the United Nations Security Council in order to prosecute those responsible for the Rwandan genocide. Specifically, the tribunal has jurisdiction over genocide, crimes against humanity and war crimes that occurred between January 1st and December 31st of1994.
We were greeted at the main gate by an ICTR intern and went up to Trial Chamber III to watch the trial of Dominique Ntawukulilyayo. Ntawukulilyayo, the former sous-prefet of the Butare province, is charged with three counts of genocide and direct and public incitement to commit genocide. Specifically, Ntawukulilyayo is accused of luring a group of Tutsi refugees to a hill where he had them massacred. From the gallery, we watched an alleged genocidaire testify against Ntawukulilyayo. During cross-examination, the defense council questioned the witness (whose identity was kept anonymous and was not visible from the gallery) about his own involvement in the genocide. I sat in utter shock as I heard the witness admit that he had rapped a young girl and had been involved in the murders of at least nine Tutsis at a roadblock in Kibuye. While I have read books about the genocide and watched numerous documentaries, I was not prepared to hear someone actually admit to these atrocities. There was something so ominous and deplorable about a man, sitting no less than ten feet from me, admit that he had participated in the genocide. What was perhaps even more shocking was the fact that his admissions did not faze the judges or lawyers in the slightest…testimony like this appeared to be the norm, not the exception. While it was certainly upsetting, there was also something truly beautiful in seeing Ntawukulilyayo in a courtroom. Throughout history, individuals like Ntawukulilyayo have been shrouded in a cloak of impunity and have not been held accountable for their actions. Now, through courts and tribunals like the ITCR, leaders from all over the world are beginning told that the international community will take action if an official abuses his or her power. I sincerely believe that such a message can and will prevent future atrocities.
After lunch, we headed back to the ICTR where we met with three of the court’s prosecutors. The three discussed their involvement and experiences with the court and the court’s pivotal role in the development of international law and justice. They stressed that the ICTR and the ICTY, its sister tribunal that is charged with prosecuting those accused of war crimes in Yugoslavia, is creating invaluable precedent that would forever alter international law. What struck me most about these three lawyers was that they were making such a tangible difference in the world…they seemed to be so dedicated and committed to international justice. It’s people like these lawyers that make me confident that we can and will find a better way forward in this troubled world…I guess I was just really inspired by the whole thing.
Okay, well I’m out for the night.
-Luke
Monday, May 18, 2009
Oh Heeeey Tanzania
We finally arrived in Arusha, Tanzania late last night after nearly twenty-three hours of flying from New York to Raleigh to Detroit to Amsterdam to Mount Kilimanjaro. Highlights of our trip included free (and unlimited) wine on KLM and being told that our pilot couldn't start the plane's left engine…we took off after the ground crew “manually” started the engine and gave the plane some “extra gas” to make sure we got to Arusha quickly. I really don't know how, but we made it. Arusha is a little city located on the base of Mount Meru, about an hour south of Mount Kilimanjaro. We're starting our trip here because, following the Rwandan genocide of 1994, the U.N. Security Council established the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda (ICTR) in Arusha. The city itself is difficult to describe. While it's most certainly frantic, chaotic and a little tired, Arusha is intriguing and, although cliché, beautiful in it's own right. The people here are so hospitable, protective, and, on the whole, pretty cool! I've been able to use my Swahili here and have had some interesting conversations with a couple of Tanzanians.
Today, we woke up early, got picked up by some legit safari jeeps, and headed out to Arusha National Park. The park was absolutely gorgeous with grasslands and Mount Meru dominating the scenery. During our game drive, we saw giraffes, warthogs, zebra, water buffalo, bushbucks, monkeys, and a lake full of flamingos. We eventually jumped out of our jeeps and headed into the bush with two park rangers (don't worry mom, they had HUGE guns). 
After watching a herd of buffalo, eating lunch on the side of Mount Meru, and hiking to a waterfall, we literally stumbled across a herd of giraffes. The giraffes (about twenty of them) were about fifteen feet away and we were able to walk with the herd for about thirty minutes. It might sound corny, but the whole experience was moving, surreal, and humbling. The park was beautiful, the safari was amazing, and, the fact that I was in Africa finally started to sink in. Well that's all for tonight. Tomorrow we'll be visiting the ICTR where we will get to observe one of the ongoing trials and meet with some of the prosecutors…I'm so excited!
Hope all is well with everyone at home and I'll try to post some pictures as soon as I get better internet access!
-Luke
Thursday, May 14, 2009
And I'm Off....
Hey all, Luke here. I'm a History/Political Science major with a minor in African Studies and just finished up my sophomore year at UNC-Chapel Hill. I really can't believe it, but tomorrow I am heading out for my summer study abroad in Rwanda, Tanzania, and the Netherlands! I'll be heading over to Africa with 19 other Carolina students to take part in one of UNC's Burch Field Seminars. The program, entitled "Rwanda and the Hague: Conflict, Reconciliation, Justice and International Law", will focus on the infamous Rwandan genocide of 1994 and the roles, structures, and purposes of different justice and reconciliation mechanisms used in Rwanda following the genocide.
I can't really explain what made me choose this specific study abroad. All I can really say is that I wanted to leave my comfort zone, try to make some sort of difference, and figure out a little bit more about myself along the way. I want to learn about the beautiful people of Rwanda and their unique culture. I want to learn about their history and their traditions. I want to learn about the genocide of 1994 and the subsequent efforts to bring peace and reconciliation to a broken country. And, perhaps most importantly, I want to learn how similar events and atrocities can be prevented in the future.
I have no idea what to expect or even how I feel right now. The events that
have taken place in Rwanda over the past 15 years are some of the saddest and most horrifying events to have occurred in modern history. In less than 100 days, more than 800,000 Rwandans were slaughtered by their neighbors and fellow countrymen. Right now, those facts and numbers are simply incomprehensible to me. However, within a week, I will come face to face with the survivors and the perpetrators of this genocide. During my time in Rwanda, I know that I will hear heart wrenching stories and see daily reminders of the genocide...I really just don't know how I'll react to all of it. Well, I guess thats about it for now! I'm hoping to use this blog as a way to keep in touch, share some of my experiences and stories, and as a way to better understand everything that I will be experiencing. While I'm really nervous right now, I can't wait to get going...I know that this will be an experience I will never forget.
-Luke
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